Hot mineral waters splash down my back as I watch it unfold. There is a cup of coffee in my hand, the San Juan River is flowing coldly below, and only a few other bathers are up, wandering from pool to pool through the steam and sulfurous smells. I have the "Serendipity" pool, with built-in waterfall back massager, all to myself. It has a long view of the other pools, bathhouse, river and, up the other bank, the small town.
I've visited a respectable number of Colorado hot springs over the years — Valley View, Ouray, Indian Springs, Strawberry Park and Steamboat Springs, to name a few. Each has its own character, features and landscape, and each defied my expectations in its own way.
But this, I think, is what I have always imagined a hot springs should be: a cascading, mineral-caked network of natural pools, cool morning air and warm, soothing water. Only Iron Mountain Hot Springs (a new option in Glenwood Springs since July 2015) has a similar layout, albeit on a smaller scale, with its variety of different temperature pools and view of the Colorado River.
But the Springs Resort goes right down to the river, with one of its pools, The Burg, practically in the current. I eventually make my way down there, enjoying the almost-too-hot water bubbling out of the sand below, while cooler water from the San Juan mixes on the top. I wave when the first rafters of the day float by.
There are two other commercial hot springs along this bend of the San Juan in downtown Pagosa Springs: Healing Waters Resort and The Overlook Hot Springs. All originate from a mother spring, the Great Pagosa Aquifer, a yellow-caked, multi-colored pool just behind my room at the Springs Resort.
This 35-foot-diameter pool was in the news a few years ago when a representative from the Guinness Book of World Records visited in 2011 and dropped a 1, 002-foot plumb line down its principal hole. Like all other previous attempts to measure its depth, the plumb line did not hit bottom, and Guinness subsequently declared it the deepest geothermal spring in the world.
But such statistics and numbers are meaningless as I lower my body into the Lobster Pot, the hottest pool on site. I try to forget about everything except this cloaking warmth and the sunshine marking the beginning another perfect day in southern Colorado.
Joshua Berman is the author of the upcoming fifth edition of "Colorado Camping, " which will be released in the spring. JoshuaBerman.net and
If you go
The Springs Resort: Winter nightly rates from $199, includes 24-hour access to 23 pools. "Ski and soak" packages include a pair of lift tickets to Wolf Creek Ski Area, 23 miles up the road. pagosahotsprings.com or 800-225-0934What is the meaning of recommend? Dance tricks advanced contemporary how to? How to get closer to god? What is the meaning of the name christian? when considering nonverbal behavior the helper must quizlet how to stop screen capture using video download helper What does self conscious mean? What are pfas chemicals? what is a press helper What does rm mean? How to flip computer screen? What time does irs deposit refunds? What causes spath leaves to brown at tips? What does hbic mean? Tips for people who worry about everything? What does chest pain feel like? What does lmoa mean? What time does the super bowl starts? How can i do magic tricks? How to do fancy tricks with cards? Tips on how to cold call? How to do tricks on mx vs atv all out? how to get rid of my inbox helper How to trick a slot machine to win? What are chinese characters called? How many subwoofers do i need for hair tricks? how do viruses escape helper t cells What drugs involve q tips? Spiritual meaning when you see a hawk? How long does it take to recover from low potassium? What are gel extensions? What does overruled mean? which t helper cell is responsible for alternative macrophage activation What is military time? What does pedestrian mean? What does resolved mean? How to use hair rollers? What is a urologist? what cells to helper t cells activate What are photons? How to wrap a gift? What does nwa stand for? How your brain tricks you into spending more money? Common fiduciary accounting mistakes and tips on how to avoid them? What does magnificent mean? Tips for family photos what to wear? What does cool mean? What does gh mean? How to do magic tricks that will blow your mind? Why does the employer pay futa on employees tips? Where is linus tech tips located? What is the meaning of todays date? Best tips to remember when prepare for a hurricane? How many hat tricks has lewandowski scored? What does abowww mean? How to litter train a rabbit? What is the meaning of hybrid classes? ac unity how to unlock crowd helper What are bath salts? How to come out to your parents? What does revolving mean? What are two tips for identifying fad diets? how to get rid of phone helper bubble on android How to download porn? What size leaders to go with mow tips? What is tamsulosin used for? What cue tips do pros use? how to use google home helper smartthings He who finds a wife find a good thing meaning? What is the meaning and purpose of life? What does nmw mean? What are th4 biggest exhaust tips? How to cancel noom? How to weigh less on the scale tricks? What does malign mean? Tips for caring for a dog when relocated? What does mos mean in the military? how long does hungry helper store Tips on how to make a great voice over presentation youtube? How to can pears? What does hoarse mean? How to divide mixed fractions? why are 3 steam web helper running How to get into bitcoin? How to get taste back from covid? Tips on how to beat shade pokemon reborn? How to find someone's ip address? What is our name meaning? What does piped mean? How to use eyelash curler? A restaurant where they cook in front of you and show tricks not in japan? What time does hannaford close? Why does my peace lily has brown tips on leaves? Rubber temple tips on glasses stretched out how to fix? What does it mean to break bad? What time is the lunar eclipse? What does dry mean in texting? How to donate plasma for money? How to get glass out of foot?